In a world-class tattoo mecca like New York City, not all tattoo artists are as skilled as Toni Tripa Flores. This Mexican native has made a career specializing in pre-Hispanic imagery. For more than a decade, from his tiny studio located between the neighborhoods of Elmhurst and Jackson Heights, Flores has been tattooing the bodies of the growing Latino community of Queens. His designs are always inspired by the ancient myths of the Latin American countries his clients hail from: Mexico, Colombia, Ecuador, Chile and Peru, among others. His work and its ties to his cultural roots are the two things that made, as he puts it, “my heart pump.”

Long gone are the times when bodybuilding was mainstream in the United States. Santos Ramos and his disciples are part of a rare tribe that’s still passionate about weightlifting. At 75, Ramos is driven by one thought: to work tirelessly so his place doesn’t have to close. His Frenchie’s Gym has been part of the changing landscape of Williamsburg since 1976. Despite the neighborhood changes spurred by massive gentrification, Frenchie’s remains a place beloved by many in the community, a survivor of an old-school discipline.

Despite the growing number of protestant churches, Catholicism is still dominant among US Latinos, a way for them to find comfort and reconnect with their roots. Juanita Jiménez knows that. Her shop is one of many in Hispanic neighborhoods offering Latino Catholics statues –big and small– of the virgins and saints they pray to: from popular ones, like Guadalupe and San Judas Tadeo to more obscure figures like Jesús Malverde, a popular “narco-saint,” whom some see as the patron saint of immigrants.

There is a small Italian community in the Belmont neighborhood that revolves around the Arthur Avenue Market. In addition to the numerous traditional butchers, pasta and pastry shops there is also a place where cigars are produced in the traditional style by a group of professional cigar rollers from the Dominican Republic. Curiously, they are all from the very same small town of Tamboril, in the province of Santiago, where tobacco has always been considered the best way of making a living.

There has been much talk about gentrification and the toll it takes on the spirit of a community. Nonetheless, just when it looks like there’s no turning back, we run across a little store or family business which offers a glimpse of the past in these fast-changing neighborhoods. A good example of that is the Caribbean Sports Club━a space tucked away in the heart of Williamsburg and run by the charismatic Toñita━where dominoes and rum introduce incredulous new arrivals to old ways.

Transexuals continue to be one of the most discredited communities in the Hispanic world. Fortunately for many Latin Americans, New York has served as a refuge where they can freely express their sexuality. One of these is Mexican Laura Martínez whose personal experience is a perfect illustration of the challenges that thousands of young Latinos face every day in this regard.

Sweet cream of beans is a favorite Dominican dish at Easter time, but there is one lady from Moca who for two decades now has been delighting her compatriots with this mouthwatering treat 365 days a year. The center of what is no doubt one of the most profitable businesses in the city, is a stand set up on a little corner in Washington Heights which she runs with her daughters and sisters. This energetic woman is Nidia Rivera, fondly known by her faithful customers as Nena la Habichuelera, the Bean Queen.

Decades ago, Puerto Ricans from the Lower East Side referred to their neighborhood as Loisaida, a term that has gradually gone out of use as fewer remained in the area. There is still a space there fighting to survive where one can hear the melodies of a genre determined to survive. Colombian pianist Héctor Martignon continues working at the Nuyorican Poets Café, doing his part so that salsa music doesn’t lose its important role in the City’s sound track.

Once a widely popular form of entertainment, the circus is fighting to stay relevant in today’s rapidly changing world. Irene España is one of the many professionals fighting to keep this art form alive. For this Mexican trapeze artist, the circus is not only her job, but her family as well. Touring the world with the Big Apple Circus, she performs with her sons and her ex-husband. Daily training and strict dieting are part of her grueling routine. Despite the nomadic lifestyle and the personal and professional ups and downs, España doesn’t regret a single minute of her career.

There was a time when a section of the West Village went by the nickname of Little Spain, coined because of the number of Spanish stores and eateries in the neighborhood. Though most of them have since disappeared, an unassuming and traditional restaurant remains on West 13th Street where the atmosphere has not changed over the years, thanks to Julio Díaz and his son Elio, two of the few remaining witnesses to that neighborhood’s past.

The Bronx is not only known by many as the cradle of hip hop but was also considered the hotbed of salsa for many years. Miguel Ángel Amadeo, a true legend in the world of Latino music continues to live there, owning and running the Casa Amadeo record shop, a must-visit spot for lovers of Caribbean music. Mike Amadeo, a prolific composer and committed singer, hopes to carry on the business for many years to come.

Long Island City, in Queens, is one of the neighborhoods which best reflects the urban transformation underway in New York, where many industrial areas have gradually become residential areas. That is precisely where brothers Luis and Cosme Aguilar have managed to open the only Mexican restaurant in the city that boasts a Michelin star. Its success has much to do with the surprises they bring to their menu, given that very few clients know the secrets of the Chiapas cuisine.

A large group of Dominicans in the Bronx are determined to keep up the spirit of one of the most famous Caribbean-based musical genres: son. Every week the Centro Cultural y Social de Bailadores de Son de Nueva York is the venue for long dance sessions enjoyed by dozens of people. One of its members is radio announcer Daniel Ventura who adds inspiration to the events with his hard-to-beat selection of son classics.

For decades Mexicans in NYC have flocked to this bakery from across the city to find just what they’re looking for. Don Paco López’ shops are not only magnets for sweet bread lovers, but also for anyone in search of a first-class tamales.

The gentrification underway in certain neighborhoods of the city has meant that many businesses have had to move out and find a new spot, in order to survive. One of these is Carol Bridal Shop whose owner decided, after running her shop in Williamsburg for over three decades, to move to Glendale. María Teresa Leal trusts in the loyalty of her long-time clients and hopes to continue attending to their needs in her new location.

For decades now, when the good weather arrives, an atypical sport takes hold in the city’s parks. All that’s needed in order to play, is a ball and a wall. The rules, however, vary according to the neighborhood. Luis Pinto, from Puerto Rico, offers a quick lesson on this particular game.

For those unfamiliar with Latin American folklore, it may come as a surprise to discover that the harp is a very popular instrument in many countries of the region. It is not, however, easy to transport, so Paraguayan harpist Silvio Solís decided to become a luthier, setting up a workshop in his apartment in the largely Hispanic Elmhurst neighborhood of Queens.

On Staten Island, a Mexican man from Oaxaca provides the borough’s growing Mixtec community with a wide range of his homegrown products. Every Saturday at the St. George Greenmarket, dozens of people line up to buy Agustín Juárez’ alaches, chilies and tomatillos.

Located next to the Mets Citi-Field stadium is Willets Point, one of the most controversial urban spaces in New York City, which has functioned for years both as a scrap yard and space for numerous auto repair shops where cars are repaired for a fraction of what would be charged at a standard mechanic’s shop. Mexican Ignacio Escalón is one of many who has made a living from that over the years.

One of the favorite spots for lovers of the delicious and little-known Central American cuisine can be found in Bushwick. That would be Amanda’s Kitchen, a tiny space which offers homemade pupusas: cornmeal tortillas with a variety of delicious fillings. The Osegueda sisters know how to please their food fans.

During the 1970’s and ‘80s, the Bronx was the setting for one of the 20th century’s most important waves of cultural expression. As graffiti arrived on the scene generated by the enthusiasm of dozens of young people, the toughest borough in the city managed to add color to its neighborhoods. In the early stages of this process, three adolescents from Longwood built up a strong reputation, based on their creativity and talent. Years later they established Tats Cru, one of the best-known graffiti artist groups in New York.

Halloween is without a doubt one of the most popular holidays on the calendar and though it has no direct links to Latino culture it has taken hold in the Hispanic community. There is a well-known costume store in the Bronx, dating back 50 years. Among its employees is Ernesto Fuentes, from Puerto Rico.

One of the best ways to truly understand a culture is through its cuisine. In Colombia, each region boasts its own traditional recipes, and they can be tracked down in New York. Ferney Gómez has mastered one of the best: Tolima-style suckling pig, a star dish on the Colombian Christmas menu. Hundreds of people flock to his butcher shop in Jackson Heights each December, eager to enjoy the pleasure of this exquisite and little-known treat.

There’s nothing most Dominicans in the city appreciate more than a good barber shop. Plus, for recent arrivals from the Dominican Republic it offers a way of making a living. That’s the case for Claudio Sandoval, who works at the popular All Stars Barbershop. There in the heart of Washington Heights, he and his fellow barbers aim to offer the perfect cut.

Although there is no denying that boxing is not in its heyday right now, lots of people still believe in the virtues of a discipline that has always suffered certain criticism. Thanks to the commitment of people like Carlos Cano Salgado, future boxers can learn the tricks of this amazing sport. This aspiring Puerto Rican boxer and Vietnam War veteran, awakes to each day eager to apply his talents towards fulfilling his dreams.

Despite all of the rapid technological advances over recent years, the radio continues to serve as a main source of information for many Latinos. The local stations are the most popular because they offer listeners news that touches their immediate lives. One of these broadcasters is located in Jackson Heights and owned by Delgado Travel with Mexican Aurelio Martínez as its sole radio host.

Pigeon-keeping in New York, initially associated for decades with Italian and Irish immigrants, nearly became a clandestine activity under Rudy Giuliani’s reign as mayor. Despite that, many Latinos continued hiding their pigeon lofts on building rooftops. Among them is Piri, from Puerto Rico, who has devoted heart and soul for over 50 years to the training of these birds.

Rock climbing is all the fashion in the United States and young Latinos are among the biggest fans of the sport. One of these, Enoc Mariscal, meets weekly with his friends at The Cliffs, one of the most popular rock climbing gyms which not only attracts people from the Hispanic community, but also from far and wide, all looking for a good adrenaline rush.

For decades soccer has been considered exclusively male territory, though more and more women are now playing the sport. Less common, however, is seeing one of these female soccer pioneers being a referee on the playing field. Venezuelan Niuka Vidal came to New York with the idea of becoming a professional soccer referee and found herself challenged by players and fans alike.

For lots of Latinos, dance is not just a way to have fun, it’s also a carefully cultivated sign of identity. That describes Wil Nieves, a young Puerto Rican from East New York who decided to try his hand at doing business, and set up a salsa dance studio. Not only did he open up a new career path for himself, but the studio is thriving in a neighborhood that has gradually been losing connections with its Hispanic past.